MMA Forum - UFC Forums - UFC Results - MMA Videos - View Single Post - The official Rusty CJ5 build thread
View Single Post
post #14 of (permalink) Old 07-14-2011, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
Gone Fishing
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Gods country
Posts: 4,521
Blog Entries: 2
First thing I did last night was figure out the bearing clearances for the connecting rods. This can be done a couple different ways but we did it with nothing but measurements. You want to have a thousandth of an inch for every inch of journal diameter. The rods have a little over a 2 inch journal so we needed around 2 thousandths per rod.

We measured the journal on the crankshaft and measured the inside diameter of the big end of the rod while it was torqued down and subtracted the journal size from the rod inside diameter. Everything was good there so we moved on to the main journals. Again using the 2 thousandths per inch of journal diameter we set the clearance at around 3 thousandths.

Next thing to do was set the ring gap For a naturally aspirated engine you should look to get about 4 thousandths of an inch for every inch of bore the engine has. The 360 has a little over a four inch bore so 16 thousandths would be the minimum you'll want to have. I went with 18 thousandths ring gap to be safe.

For a motor running nitrous, a blower, supercharger, etc...You'll want to open this up a bit. With the added cylinder pressure the ring ends can butt together and will tear the top off thepiston, break the ring, or worse.

Once that was set on went the rings. First the bottom ring which has a wavy, flexible ring with two thin smaller rings on top and bottom. The second ring or oil scraper ring has a specific way it goes on so it can scrape oil from the cylinder walls down into the oil pan and not up into the combustion chamber. On this ring package the top ring can go on either way.

Next step was installing the pistons. We just used a generic ring compressor that worked fine. This section needs more pics but I forgot to get them We hammered the pistons down into the block using rubber guards over the rod bolts to not damage the crankshaft. Once installed we secured the rod caps with the supplied nuts and moved on to the camshaft.

The camshaft we used is a knock off of a popular small block chevy camshaft and should do well at lower rpms. It is a split duration and like most cams these days leaves the exhaust valve open a shade longer than the intake. We lubed the cam with assembly grease and slid it into place. This is where we hit our first snag.

The balancer on this engine is a four hole design when almost everyone else uses a three hole. So, we couldn't degree the cam. Second snag was the cam uses a keyway to locate the timing gear and mine didn't come with one. We were just going to install the cam straight up since degreeing was not an option but couldn't even do that for lack of a key.

Hopefully today I can find a key for it and have the engine put together by this weekend. My friend has a stand that we'll be breaking the motor in on and I hope to get a video to post. Sorry again for the lack of pics, I'll do better next time
Rusty is offline  
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome