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Back to Basics

70K views 230 replies 46 participants last post by  Kapitein Koek 
#1 ·
So, a friend of mine suggested I put this thread together to help people really nail down the fundamentals of their favorite simple techniques.

There are alot of basic things that I see even high level guys f*ck up sometimes, and they are things that take alot of time to master, so whether you're a beginning grappler or someone who wants to get back to basics (and we all should, every once in a while), post a technique on this thread.

There are some good grapplers in here, and some good material on youtube that I'll link in for people, so whatever you bring to the table, you should get some good stuff.

So, anyone who wants some of the details of more basic moves broken down, post them here.

EDIT: I've made a decision to index the first ten pages of this thread in this post, so it's easier for people to navigate. All posts will be made by technique, in alphabetical-chronological order. I've starred my posts, just as a point of reference for me.

(Indexed Pages 1-20)

Armbar from the Bottom 1
Armbar from the Bottom 2*
Butterfly Guard 1*
Butterfly Guard 2*
Can Opener 1*
Crack Down
Ezequiel Choke 1*
Gi Grips*
Guard Pass 1*
Guard Pass 2 a
Guard Pass 2 b*
Guard Posture and Defense*
Guard Theory with Heavy Opponents*
Guard Theory with Strikes*
Half Guard Sweep 1*
Inverted Gogoplata 1*
Inverted Gogoplata 2*
Kimura
Kimura From Guard 1*
Mount Escapes 1*
Mount Escapes 2
Mount Escapes 3*
Mount Escapes 4
Mount Top Position*
Omoplata 1*
Omoplata 2*
Regaining Guard 1*
Scarf Hold Escapes 1*
Scarf Hold Escapes 2*
Scarf Hold Escapes 3*
Side Mount Escapes 1*
Side Mount Escapes 2*
Sprawl 1
Sprawl 2
Straight Ankle Lock*
Triangle Escapes and Prevention 1*
Triangle Escapes and Prevention 2
X-Guard Sweeps*
 
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#4 ·
Alright, so this is one that I see alot of people having trouble with, especially against bigger opponents, because everybody feels like they can't bridge off a bigger opponent.

Really, when you're working from the bottom of side mount, the important thing is to get your elbows and knees in so that you can get your opponent off of your hip. This is, like I said, a thread on the basics. There are some advanced escapes that you can do from here (the running man escape, the belly down escape), but really the fundamental point is to get your elbows and knees in to protect your opponents hips.

Frank Shamrock uses the term "be the ball" to describe connection your elbows and your knees, and creating that space (which protects your hips and allows you to sing back to guard) is the biggest thing.

A few little details and problems that people tend to have:

Sometimes the opponent over commits his hip and accidentally drops it on the ground. When he does that, just weave the bottom leg through and trap your opponent's upper body in guard. I land this alot because I have flexible legs.

Another thing that alot of beginning guys miss is that when you pass guard to side control you need to establish that underhook. That's really important to be aware of as the bottom guy because, if your opponent forgets that underhook, you can just shrug him forward and take the back.

Still, as far as the general side control escape (the white-belt version that also works to protect the knee on belly), it's about getting your "shields" (that connected area of your knee and elbow) between you and your opponent to keep you from getting caught in a bad position.

I'll get to joppp's in a minute.
 
#3 ·
Jacare beat Marcelo Garcia with a very simple kimura (with his guard CLOSED). I'd really like to know about the kimura from the bottom!
 
#5 ·
The real problem people tend to have with the kimura is breaking down your opponent. Alot of white and blue belts try to start by applying the kimura with their arm reaching over the elbow, instead of over the shoulder, and then they try and work it in. (see Matt Hughes vs. Royce Gracie, the kimura that Matt uses is the epitomy of what I'm talking about) It doesn't work like that.

The important thing, whether you are sitting up to do it as part of a hip-sweep style combination (which I really like) or off of your back in the guard, is to have your opponent's body closed with yours. There shouldn't be alot of extra space.

As far as doing it from the closed guard, it's really about having control of that shoulder and sinking the lock in. Remember to finish the lock with your hips, even if you are leaving the legs together and not opening them like in a traditional kimura. (opening the legs does create more leverage, but, as Jacare showed, it's not necessary to finish)

One of the things that you have to remember about the finish that Jacare used is that he's alot bigger than Marcelo. He has that power advantage thatalot of people forget about in that matchup.People forget about that when they watch Marcelo, because he kills guys way bigger than him, but that was a serious problem in that fight with Jacare.

If you are a smaller guy trying to finish a bigger guy with that kimura, you will probably need to open that guard to finish, or you can do what I do and work it up into an almost semi-omoplata position to finish.

Still, that's a little advanced for what I'm trying to get to in this thread.

The real trick about sinking in that deep kimura is to have that arm over the shoulder and to have your body closed as you start to work on the technique. Those little details are one of the major differences between a kimura that wins fights (like Jacare's) and a kimura that makes Mike Goldberg yell alot, but doesn't really do anything (like Matt Hughes').

NOTE: Matt Hughes' kimura against Joe Riggs is actually a really, really good kimura. I'm talking about the Royce Gracie one specifically.
 
#7 ·
Again, it's all about the instructor. Dean Lister has some videos on there and Eddie Bravo has some on there. Those are really good. Ari Bolden's stuff is generally pretty good, too, but he does make some small technical mistakes.

Glad to hear that you like the thread. If you've got questions (or if anybody else does) please post them.

Also, it doesn't need to be strictly me giving advice, though I'll respond to every question on here as soon as I can. Anyone else who wants to help out is certainly welcome to.
 
#9 ·
These are pretty common problems for dudes who get to the jiu-claw (Eddie Bravo's loose omoplata sort-of set up) and can't finish the omoplata. I'll walk through the whole technique once you've gotten to that shoulder isolation position (there are so many ways to get there that it's really not worth going over even the basic ones in a single post, I'll do that later).

The first thing that alot of people forget to do, and you may not, but it's something that I always remind people of, is to wrap that arm into your hip so that you have control of it. This is where the shoulder lock comes from and, without the arm trapped, your opponent actually has the better position.

Once you do that, you should grab the belt, if you need to hoist yourself up. From this position there are two ways to finish the omoplata, one is mine and the other is the traditional way, they're both simple, so I'll walk through both of them.

My Way

This basically puts you into the position of a bottom side carni with no hands.

I'm going to keep that arm trapped with one hand and climb up the back with the other. I'm not skooting my hips out (which can sometimes make this harder to do, but doesn't finish the omo the way that I do it) and I'm looking for a half nelson on the opposite side.

Once I put my arm under my opponents arm and get the half nelson, I'm going to finish by pulling myself up and cranking in the omoplata. It should look like a wierd crucifix with you on top of your opponent instead of having them flipped over.

The Traditional Way

Basically, to prevent your opponent from providing muscular resistance, you are going to trap the hip (as you were saying), to keep them from rolling out and scoot your hips out to the side, dragging their arm and putting your opponent more on their stomach. Your legs should be facing away from your opponent and they should be opened.

From this position, just lean forward and finish the technique.

Anyway, to address your particular problems.

If your opponent is rolling through your grip, you need to work on your balance from that position. Drop your weight down onto the shoulder that's blocking his hips before you pull his arm out. Once you pull his arm out, in the traditional version, you've won, because he has no base to roll over on. If you want to try my version, then just keep your upper-body weight blocking his hips, you don't need it to finish the omo as you climb up his body, the torque in his shoulder from the movement is sufficient.

If your legs get stuck under you when you're trying for a traditional omo, then transition to my omo. That's one of the reasons why I started using it, because alot of guys will grab my feet and keep me from getting them outside to finish the traditional version. Just climb the back and make sure that their arm is tucked in your hip, this'll finish them.
 
#10 ·
Ive been wrestling for a while now, but other forms of grappling are still really unique to me. And one thing I've really been struggling with is getting out of the full mount. Any advice would be great. BTW great threat-this is awesome, really appreciate.
 
#11 ·
Thanks, man.

As far as getting out of the mount, there are two ways to go (in terms of basic escapes). There's the bridge and roll and then there's the hip escape.

The bridge and roll requires you to trap one of your opponent's hands, then lock down the foot on same side. This will prevent your opponent from stopping the roll and creating a base.

Then you are just going to bridge up and to the side, rolling over, so that you come up in your opponent's guard. Make sure that you do this to the side that you have locked down, otherwise you're f*cked.

The hip escape starts with a hip bump. Use the hip bump and shoot your hips out like a shrimp move (if you need help with that, then I'll help you out, because I know it's not something people do in wrestling). Make sure that you are on one side, which will create space, and then slip one knee out. (this gets you to half guard) You should always slip out your bottom leg.

Put that knee on the hip, like a butterfly, and then push to get a little more space. Then you should be able to wrap the leg around to that half guard position.

Then roll to the other side, do that hip move again and you get back to the full guard. (even if you decide you want to fight from the half guard, you need to roll to that other side to work.
 
#12 ·
Alrighty, I can picture the bridge and roll in my head, Ill have to wait to try it, but could you explain the shrimp move any more? Like you mentioned I've never had a coach say anything about it. I had kind of picture curling into a ball and then getting eaten. :confused03: The bridge and roll sounds great though, I can't wait to try it out. I gotta spread rep, but its coming around again.
 
#13 ·
Sure. It starts by rolling on your side, straightening your bottom leg and pushing off with your top leg to shoot your hips out behind you. Then you are going to connect your knees to your elbows and roll back onto your back. (or, in the mount escape, to the other side so you can do it again)
 
#15 ·
Kickass thread, dude....+1 repped for the great thread.




I have issues with topside and the triangle escape (I tend to just smack people in the face because I do MMA, but when it's straight grappling, I'm in a world of hurt).


Any advice?
 
#16 ·
Kickass thread, dude....+1 repped for the great thread.

I have issues with topside and the triangle escape (I tend to just smack people in the face because I do MMA, but when it's straight grappling, I'm in a world of hurt).

Any advice?
Again, thanks man.

As far as topside escapes from the triangle, at a basic level it's about defending the triangle and working your way out of it.

Keep your elbows in and remember: two arms in the guard or two arms out of the guard. If you get caught with one in and one out, you're in trouble.

Don't let your arm get pulled across your neck. Alot of guys hide that arm and turn in the direction of the arm that's in. (that's important because turning the other way will tighten the triangle)

As far as escapes, the common one is to posture out of it. This works against a triangle in its early stages (before it's tight and, well, a triangle), but you have to remember to keep that elbow in so you don't get caught in an armbar.

Hope that was helpful. As far as a more advanced escape, the common one is to put your legs around your opponent and pry the triangle off. That works sometimes, but it's an advanced move, so be patient practicing it, there's alot of ways it can go wrong.
 
#20 ·
Alright, I got another one for yall, let me know when Im getting annoying. I was watching the Fedor vs Hong Man Choi fight and Fedor pulls the slick arm bar from the bottom, could I get some advice for setting up for one of those on the bottom? I watched that and almost drooled, so I figured I might as well ask. Thanks
 
#21 · (Edited)
ill see if i can help you out dude
ok just for explanations sake well say your going for an armbar on your opponents right arm
basically you want to secure his right arm at the wrist and tricep, then place your left leg on his hip, and your right leg high on his back, and twist your hips so that your body is perpendicular to your opponents (so just spin 90 degrees)
pass your left leg over your opponents head
then to finish the submission and get the tap out squeeze your knees together raise your hips and pull down on the wrist

hope that helps you man
if it didnt im sure Ironman can explain it much better than i can
 
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#25 ·
HOW DO SPRAWL?

Anyone want to give a detailed, step-by-step explanation of the sprawl, rather than just 'hips down, feet back'? And maybe on defending a single-leg takedown once it's to the point where he's got it sunk in (standing with your knee on his chest)?
 
#26 ·
Okay... How do you sprawl? Since the thread is "Back to Basics" I'll offer you a few tidbits that are readily applicable even before you get to where you have to sprawl. All these little bits make a difference in defending takedowns, whether they be double-leg, single-leg or greco-roman style take downs.

All leg dives and shots can be broken down and explained like this: You take your opponent down by restricting the movement of their base while destroying their center of gravity. Restricting the movement of your opponent's base is down by grabbing ahold of the person's leg(s), isolating/controlling it and then bringing it out from under their center of gravity/hips by pushing, pulling or lifting. Sounds a little too simplified, right? It is, but when the concept of the technique is understood the principles of defending it become clear.

First rule of defending a shot: Control distance and range. Just like any punch or kick, it doesn't do any good to shoot from too far away. So how do you know when you are in shooting range? The general rule of thumb is if you can touch your opponent, you can shoot on them. This is the reason why you see grapplers tap their opponent's on the head, chest or shoulder. Not only does it distract the person, it also acts as a range finder. In MMA, you would use the jab. Once you can connect solidly, you can shoot effectively. The flip side of that is that they can shoot on you too. By controlling distance and range with footwork and mobility, you afford yourself that extra 100th of a second to setup or defend a shot.

Second rule of defending a shot: Keep on the same level (or lower) than your opponent. Just as a good shooter will drop their level before they shoot, you should drop your level to match their's to defend the shot. Remember, in order to destroy your center of gravity they have get underneath it. Dropping your level to match theirs will put your body in a solid position right in front of theirs. This is also the reason why a lot of guys miss sinking in underhooks when someone shoots on them. Their upperbody is still completely upright while their opponent is knee-level diving for their legs.

Third rule or defending a shot: Do not fight their force head on, redirect it. Just like you don't want to back up straight in a striking contest, you don't want to end up in a test of strength during a takedown if you can avoid it. When you are in a crash position, head-to-head, chest-to-chest with an opponent driving into you, realize that trying to muscle through them is a waste of energy (even if you are stronger than them). It is best to redirect their energy and turn them to the side of you or straight down while you move away from their path. In fact, when you sprawl you are using your body and gravity to direct their shot and force directly into the ground underneath you.

Keep those in mind when you looking to shoot, or looking to defend a shot and picking up on specific techniques to implement during that time (like the sprawl) becomes an easier task. I'll tackle sprawling (no pun intended), if nobody covers it before me, when I come back from the dojo.
 
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#27 ·
For guys who are considering doing hip escape from mount you have to adjust it. The reason that I say this is because if you do the normal shrimp with both arms on one side, it will result in getting your back taken, or a gift wrap to arm triangle. Instead use more of a foot drag.

So lets say you are on bottom and goingfor there right foot, you'll lean on your left side bring your right over there right ankle then push there knee with your left hand as you move your hips back.
 
#28 ·
This is actually a great point, ozz, and thanks for mentioning it.

Personally, I try and slip the leg out underneath their leg instead of working my hips out, to set up half-guard. Usually it isn't much harder (though I have pretty good flexibility and am relatively small).

Then I use the traditional hip escape form to free my other leg and create space.
 
#29 ·
Simple guard passes

Hey, I was wondering if anyone could please teach me a few tricks to passing a tight closed-guard (no-gi). The main trick I use is the can opener, and it can be effective, but it would be nice to know more than that, especially when grappling with a more experienced and larger opponent.

Any techniques for passing from the closed-guard position would be extremely helpful, because I tend to struggle breaking my opponent's guard.

Thanks in advance!
 
#30 ·
Hey, I was wondering if anyone could please teach me a few tricks to passing a tight closed-guard (no-gi). The main trick I use is the can opener, and it can be effective, but it would be nice to know more than that, especially when grappling with a more experienced and larger opponent.

Any techniques for passing from the closed-guard position would be extremely helpful, because I tend to struggle breaking my opponent's guard.

Thanks in advance!
The can opener and the elbow dig are the two best ones for beginners, because they are so effective for minimal skill, but here's something a little better.

Just lock your opponent down by pushing your palms into your opponents ribs, keeping your elbows in and maintaining good posture.

Then, slide one of your knees under your opponent's butt and step backwards (like 90 degrees from your opponent) with one of your legs (your foot should be on the ground and your leg should be extended, and your butt should be off the ground). Then take off the arm that is on the same side of your opponent and pop the guard by dropping your hipsbackwards (this is the direction 45 degrees from the was your leg is pointing, so, perpendicular to your opponent). This should open the guard.

Once you have opened the guard, go about your pass whichever way you like to pass (toreando, double under, spin pass or shoulder pass or whatever).

If you need help with the actually passes and not just the breaks, Fedor>all, let me know.
 
#32 ·
Another good way to open up a guard is to just stand up. This will usually cause your opponents guard to open. Make sure you put your feet back though otherwise you'll get your ankle grabbed and swept
 
#33 ·
Thanks for this one, wukka. I totally forgot about the standup option.

A few details in addition to keeping your opponent from grabbing the feet:

Keep your elbows inside to block out your opponent's knees. If your opponent pinches his knees together, he can flip you on to your back, so get your elbows inside and block his legs out to prevent that.

Throw your hips forward when you do this move, this is usually what pops the feet and opens the guard.
 
#34 ·
I too need another option for breaking the guard. The knee in butt turn hip isn't working for me, it leaves out to much space. What I am starting to do is just reach back to the ankle and put one arm in, they always go for the triagnle and open the guard. I am pretty good at passes after the guard is open.
One more thing that I need help on is butterfly guard. When I go for the classic double overhook sweep I am always getting passed. As soon as I go to my side to sweep he jumps to the other side.
Please help, if there are any video's that you have they would greatly help. I learn better seeing something
 
#35 ·
Try the standup break, listed above. (it's right above your post)

Also, if your opponent has long legs or a loose guard, I sometimes slip my arms underneath their legs and go for a double-under pass right from there. If anyone needs clarification on what that means, happy to provide it.

With that one, make sure you get both arms out, or you'll get triangled.
 
#40 ·
Sorry for the wait, Dempsey Roll. Now I'll cover the sprawl. Let me give you a basic step-by-step with a minor variation on the initial contact. The reason why the variation has to be pointed out is that one version is all well and fine for pure grappling contests, but can get you knocked out in a MMA bout. So let me go over the grappling only version first.

The Sprawl With Cowcatcher:
1) When your opponent changes levels, lower your level to match theirs.
2) While lowering your level bring your lead hand down to your lead knee (palm up), and your rear hand to your rear knee (palm up or down does not matter). This will allow you to sink at least 1 underhook with your lead hand if your opponent is shooting a single (usually to your lead leg) and has your other hand ready to shoot in for the other underhook if they shoot a double.
3) While the opponent makes contact with you, shoot your hips and your feet back. Many times new guys make the mistake of shooting one back, but not the other. If you shoot your hips back and not your feet, your legs will be right there for your opponent to suck in and they will drive through you. If you shoot your feet back and not your hips, they will still be able to wrap a body lock up, drive and take you down. So hips and feet back at the same time.
4) At this time, gravity will be working for you. Your opponent's body will still be moving forward under you and your body will be coming down into a prone position on top of them. While coming down, shoot your hips down toward the ground and let your feet land down insteps first. It should feel like your driving their head into the ground with your groin. Make sure to keep your insteps to the ground when you land as it will allow your body to slide forward with their drive. If you land toes down, your toes will dig into the mat, lifting your center of gravity as they drive. This will allow them to suck you into a takedown.
5) Your finished position should be you on top, your hips/groin arched through the back of your opponent's neck head (no higher than the back of their shoulders), insteps down, with both underhooks in the classic "cowcatcher" position. From there fight for separation, turn your opponent, or float over to their side or back.

That is your classic sprawl with cowcatcher/double underhooks. It is the go-to technique when someone shoots in pure grappling competition. However, when you are in a MMA setting where striking is allowed dropping your hands in preparation for underhooks is a bad, bad idea. If your opponent notices or anticipates it, you can get laid out. They can simply drop levels (baiting you to drop your hands) and then explode out from the crouching position with a strike. For a prime example of this, see Randleman vs CroCop I. Obviously this is a place you don't want to end at.

To allow for that same level of control with contact on a sprawl, you would want to use a "bull-post" or "forearm crash" version of the sprawl. In fact, Forrest Griffin covered the forearm crash when he went over the sprawl on the MMA episode of Human Weapon. Here is how these work.

The Sprawl With Bull Post:
1) When your opponent changes levels to shoot, lower yours to match.
2) While the come forward, reach out and post both your hands on the opponent's shoulders, head or combination of the two.
3) As the opponent drives forward, use your arms to drive their upper body down and to the side of you while you sprawl.

From that point, everything is the same as the Sprawl above. I've seen Eugene Jackson and Chuck Liddell use this a few times, usually followed up with an uppercut or hook to the head. With this, you have to make sure that you lower your level to match theirs or your opponent's drive will crash right through your posting arms. Also, lower your chin and head while shrugging your shoulders up so that they act like a barrier to keep your head protected.

The Sprawl with Forearm Crash:
1) When your opponent changes levels to shoot, lower yours to match.
2) While the opponent comes forward, drop your elbows and forearms so that they are between you and your opponent. Some folks like this as this does not bring them completely out of their normal standing gaurd.
3) When your opponent crashes into your forearms, go into your sprawl and shoot your hips and feet back.
4) While coming down into contact with the mat, use your elbows and forearms to drive your opponent down underneath you, or to the side. Drive them face first into the mat.

From that point, finish the sprawl like you would normally. This is also a good one to use for MMA, as it doesn't take you completely out of gaurd while you are standing. The drawback to it is you don't have the same control as the cowcatcher, neither do you have the same distance afforded to you as the bull post. The upside is that you are less likely to be caught off gaurd and knocked out.

Notice how the rules of changing levels and re-directing your opponent's force apply to the sprawl? In fact, watching Lyoto Machida shut down Tito's shots in the last UFC event was a beautiful demonstration of controlling range, matching level and re-directing your opponent when they try to shoot. It was all a lot of basic stuff executed perfectly. When you have a mastery of the basic principles and techniques, you end up making things look easy and everything else becomes more effective because of that.

I hope this helps.
 
#41 ·
When talking guard passes, is Mario Sperry's "submission grappling" guard passes still good (they're not obsolete or too basic or anything?). Because I've found that posturing up and put one hand on the chest of the opponent and the other on his leg, preassuring (changing hand depending on his reaction) and perhaps stand up is a good pass, in all it's simplicity.

Also, leaving your arm out for an armbar/triangle, defending in the last moment and proceeding to pass, is a great however daring pass. It's prolly one of my more used ones, but that's more because I'm sloppy from the top (but with good defense) than anything else :)
 
#42 ·
When talking guard passes, is Mario Sperry's "submission grappling" guard passes still good (they're not obsolete or too basic or anything?). Because I've found that posturing up and put one hand on the chest of the opponent and the other on his leg, preassuring (changing hand depending on his reaction) and perhaps stand up is a good pass, in all it's simplicity.
Yeah, the basic stuff is valid and it's great. I think these are the passes we've been talking about through most of this thread.

Yeah, simple is better.

Also, leaving your arm out for an armbar/triangle, defending in the last moment and proceeding to pass, is a great however daring pass. It's prolly one of my more used ones, but that's more because I'm sloppy from the top (but with good defense) than anything else :)
Ummm... it's a gamble. If it pays off for you, great, but don't become reliant on it, because I catch guys all of the time when they bait me.

If you give me a move that I know really well, like a triangle choke or an omoplata, and I'll take it, and there's a chance I'll finish you.

It's better to not play that risk unless you absolutely has to. It's great if you know how to do that, but it's better to save that for later in the game if you do get caught, because baiting is not a good place to start. Not something I personally recommend.
 
#44 ·
This probably isn't going to be a good idea against seriously dangerous 10th Planet guys.

I have guys who bait me with the omoplata by putting their hands on the ground, and generally I just catch them in the jiu-claw and either sweep or lock down the omoplata or the carni.

There are lots of guys who think that they can't get past once they stuff the leg and think that they're safe from the omoplata, but they're setting up the carni, as well as giving up a pretty easy move to take the back or set up a reverse triangle.

I'll say this again:

Don't bait moves unless you really have to, because if your opponent is really good at that move, you could get caught, and you are basically giving your opponents the opportunity to take control.

So, if you get stuck in the rubber guard, keep your elbows in, your hands off of the ground and posture up. Use whatever points of grip you can get and work for the position.

The other way to get out of the rubber guard is to lock out your opponents bottom leg with one hand, so that they can't put the triangle on. Then swim your arm out the bottom and work the double-under pass.
 
#46 ·
There aren't any. I mean, you can try a can-opener, but it's not a submission, it's a guard opener.

Pass the guard, then look to submit. Don't go for a submission when your opponent can submit you over basic mistakes like extending your arms too far.

That's just a general though, though. If you want me to walk you through an achilles lock, I can do that.
 
#49 ·
A basic half guard sweep that is NOT the lockdown+whip up or the one Nogueira did against Sylvia would be super appreciated!
 
#51 ·
OK. This one is for my friend Jeremy Adkins, who won a major tournament (can't remember if it was the US Open or the Pan Ams) with this sweep.

First, lock out the foot from half guard and posture up on your elbow (so that you are on the inside, not across the body, because you'll get crossfaced and passed.

Reach under their leg with your inside arm and grab your opponents foot (the one that is not locked out). Transition it to the other hand (your outside hand) so that you are reaching across your opponents thigh and have the foot pulled against the thigh.

Then use that grip point to pull your opponent off balance (because they can't block with the foot) and push them over. Use that position, with the foot locked in, to pass your opponent's guard.

If there's anything that's confusing, ask.

Could you do a write up on the Ezekiel choke?
I've used it before but honestly I don't really know what I'm doing.
Also is it too easy to escape if done from side control?
If you get the ezequiel choke, you should transition to a knee-on-belly or mount because you are going to need to keep more control over your opponent than just the hip-on-hip control. Personally, I try and get to the mount, unless I feel like my opponent is going to feed me an armbar or a lapel choke from the knee on belly, where it's easier to finish.

So, from the knee on belly or the mount (or the side control, if you're setting it up from there), you should slip one hand under the head and grab the inside of your sleeve with the hand that's under the head.

Then you place the other hand across the throat and grab your other sleeve to finish the choke.

When applying the choke, extend your arms. Don't just try and squeeze, there's a lot more power in the arm extension.
 
#52 ·
Thanks Ironman. Any tips on preventing someone posturing up in your guard, steping into it holding your feet up and sitting on top of it, pinning you down with your own knees on your shoulders?

I know it sounds weird and fucked up, but the guy who does it is fast, strong and heavier than me, and nearly impossible to sweep or trip.
I can often roll backwards out of it, but that usually ends up with me in an even worse position.
Hes pinned me down like this about three times before.
 
#53 ·
Thanks Ironman. Any tips on preventing someone posturing up in your guard, steping into it holding your feet up and sitting on top of it, pinning you down with your own knees on your shoulders?
I would try and not be in this position. Really the ideal move is to shorten up your legs and get back to the guard. Bend the knees and wrap around the body to get back to guard.

It's about connecting your elbows and your knees. As Frank Shamrock says, "be the ball."
 
#54 ·
Alright I was just reading your training log for a little motivation before I go to practice. And there was something you have in there you called the Buddha Choke I think, like a gogoplata from full mount I believe you said. Now, keeping in mind I don't know what in the world a gogoplata is, any shot you could do a walk through of that sucker? It sounds viscous. And thanks for this thread, I still cant afford to take classes, so at open mats for wrestling me and some of the guys try new stuff out.

Just as an aside, if you happen to know a good BJJ instructional, which one would you (yall) recommend?
 
#55 ·
As far as instructionals go, the best ones I've found are the Marcelo Garcia and Robert Drysdale ones. Check out the samples on youtube and if you think it's helpful then buy them. They're worth it.

The Buddha Choke is, like I said, an inverted gogoplata. A gogoplata is a shin choke, basically trapping the arm and then (when you're doing the submission off of your back) pulling the head down to apply pressure to the throat with your shin.

The Buddha Choke starts from mount, and I turn like I'm going for an armbar. I step up and step over the head, but instead of turning the hips through, I flatten them out and move back to sitting on my opponent's chest. It requires a little bit of hip flexibility and often requires a little bit of work to get the shin underneath the chin.

Then I lean forward (actually, you should be leaning forward the whole time, but add additional pressure as you apply the submission) and place the knee of the leg not choking my opponent on my heel. Put my body weight on that knee to apply the choke.

Hopefully that's explanatory.
 
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