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Old 07-11-2011, 01:52 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm just gonna take all the good stuff off the white one and put it on the red one. The axles, tires, winch, transfer case, windshield frame, hood, power steering, power brakes, and seats will all be swapped. Then the plan is to put all the crappy stuff on the white one and give it to my brother.

He just wants one to tool around on the farm so it won't need to be super nice. The one crappy thing about it is the 4 speed thats in the white one won't work with the transfer case in the red one so we'll have to swap the trans.

I've already swapped the hood and windshield frame and I'm just gonna paint the body of the red one white. The decals are expensive for the hood so I'm just gonna try to match the white on it the best I can.

Apparently the hood flew up on the red one sometime judging by the huge crease across its middle and a swapped on windshield frame. The frame they put on it was so rusty that I literally pulled it away from the hinges. Theyhad filled in huge holes all the way across it with bondo to hold in the threaded pieces where the hinges bolt on.

Where the belt buckle for the passenger seat bolted to the floor of the red one also had a small rust hole. They just filled the hole with silicone, ran the belt buckle bolt down into the silicone and spray painted it black.

My buddy ordered the correct main bearings today and we should have them tomorrow. The shitty part is its 106 degrees today and it's supposed to be 110 tomorrow. Lame
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Old 07-12-2011, 10:54 AM   #12 (permalink)

 
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106F is hot, that would be like a record hot day here.
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Old 07-14-2011, 12:13 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Some good progress was made tonight but I'm too tired to go into details really. I'll be more descriptive in the morning after some sleep.

We've had a little rain the last couple days so it's cooled down some. It was 81 degrees when we left the shop at 10:15 or so. Got the short block together pretty much but hit a couple small snags that I'll explain soon. They will be remedied quickly and with extreme prejudice

Like always, I forget to take pictures as work is being done but here's a good one.



And from the bottom side



Hopefully soon it'll be doing this again.



My friend has this pic on the homepage of his website which feeds my ego just a touch.
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Old 07-14-2011, 11:31 AM   #14 (permalink)
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First thing I did last night was figure out the bearing clearances for the connecting rods. This can be done a couple different ways but we did it with nothing but measurements. You want to have a thousandth of an inch for every inch of journal diameter. The rods have a little over a 2 inch journal so we needed around 2 thousandths per rod.

We measured the journal on the crankshaft and measured the inside diameter of the big end of the rod while it was torqued down and subtracted the journal size from the rod inside diameter. Everything was good there so we moved on to the main journals. Again using the 2 thousandths per inch of journal diameter we set the clearance at around 3 thousandths.

Next thing to do was set the ring gap For a naturally aspirated engine you should look to get about 4 thousandths of an inch for every inch of bore the engine has. The 360 has a little over a four inch bore so 16 thousandths would be the minimum you'll want to have. I went with 18 thousandths ring gap to be safe.

For a motor running nitrous, a blower, supercharger, etc...You'll want to open this up a bit. With the added cylinder pressure the ring ends can butt together and will tear the top off thepiston, break the ring, or worse.

Once that was set on went the rings. First the bottom ring which has a wavy, flexible ring with two thin smaller rings on top and bottom. The second ring or oil scraper ring has a specific way it goes on so it can scrape oil from the cylinder walls down into the oil pan and not up into the combustion chamber. On this ring package the top ring can go on either way.

Next step was installing the pistons. We just used a generic ring compressor that worked fine. This section needs more pics but I forgot to get them We hammered the pistons down into the block using rubber guards over the rod bolts to not damage the crankshaft. Once installed we secured the rod caps with the supplied nuts and moved on to the camshaft.

The camshaft we used is a knock off of a popular small block chevy camshaft and should do well at lower rpms. It is a split duration and like most cams these days leaves the exhaust valve open a shade longer than the intake. We lubed the cam with assembly grease and slid it into place. This is where we hit our first snag.

The balancer on this engine is a four hole design when almost everyone else uses a three hole. So, we couldn't degree the cam. Second snag was the cam uses a keyway to locate the timing gear and mine didn't come with one. We were just going to install the cam straight up since degreeing was not an option but couldn't even do that for lack of a key.

Hopefully today I can find a key for it and have the engine put together by this weekend. My friend has a stand that we'll be breaking the motor in on and I hope to get a video to post. Sorry again for the lack of pics, I'll do better next time
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:21 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Not much to report really. It's been over 105 degrees for a week so neither I or my buddy have much ambition to work on the CJ. Did get a cam key for it and have cleaned up some tin but not much else. Big steps will be made when I do get back to it this week sometime.

In other news, Novak has somehow lost my transmission. Actually, the shipping company Echo are the ones at fault but I'm blaming Novak. Not sure how you lose something that weighs as much as an old four speed but they've managed to. How do you lose this?



I noticed alot of views but not many comments in this thread. It'd give me inspiration if I got more feedback from you guys but criticism would work well too. Let me know what you think about it
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Old 07-23-2011, 09:12 AM   #16 (permalink)
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This will be a sort of two part update. My phone wasn't able to email pictures last Wednesday for some readon but got it figured out now. As you know it's terribly hot here so the little work that is being done is not very often. Finished cleaning up some of the small parts and got some paint on them. Here's a before and after of the oil pan.





And of the intake manifold.





Didn't get a before ofthe valve covers but they turned out pretty nice.


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Old 07-23-2011, 09:20 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Finally received the transmission Friday. Felt like slapping the face of the delivery driver for making jokes about how long it took to deliver but settled for being a rude smart ass to him. Here it is nestled in the seat of the daily driver.



That aluminum adapter on the back was 500 bucks by itself but I wanted to retain my Dana 300 transfer case which is the strongest one ever put into a CJ. The 1980 version which I have is also unique because it is 3-4 inches shorter than other makes. That will help with rear driveline issues which can be a problem with the 84 inch wheelbase of the CJ5. It can also be upgraded with a 4:1 low range kit if I need deeper gearing down the road.

I did bitch enough to where the company I bought it from refunded the shipping, saving me 200 dollars. That brings the total of the tranny and adapter to just over $1500.
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Old 07-23-2011, 09:33 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Got a good bit of work done last night. Found a couple cam keys, one is for the fuel pump eccentric that I'll have a pic of later and the other I can't remember right now what it's for Got the timing set put on. If you look close you can see the two dots on the gears. At the bottom of the top gear and the top of the bottom gear. That's how you put it in time.



Next thing was to put on the cylinder heads. Using the pattern recommended by AMC I torqued the bolts to 60lbs, 80lbs, and finally, 100lbs. Using the sequence is vital in a high horsepower motor but not so much for one like this. It's the similar idea around torquing lug nuts.



Now for some paint! Taped off the intake valley, set the valve covers and oil pan on with a couple bolts, as well as the old timing cover. Plan to leave the cover aluminum so I didn't want over spray on it.



By now more people had shown up at the shop for cold refreshments and hoolaginism and it turned into more of a party than engine building session.

Ended the night by cleaning the rocker arms and pushrods in the solvent tank and sprayed them off with brake parts cleaner.



Going to the shop here in a few and hope to get it buttoned up for the most part today. Should have some more updates this afternoon sometime.

Thanks for looking and hope you guys are enjoying this build as much as I am
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Old 07-24-2011, 06:42 PM   #19 (permalink)
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It was overcast this morning so I headed to the shop. About 30 minutes later it was no longer overcast and the temperature was 108 with some ungodly heat index. I've drank a gallon of tea and half a gallon of water in the last 6 hours.

I had one of my best days progress wise today. For the life of me I couldn't remember how the fuel pump eccentric went on since it's been so long since it was taken apart but luckily figured it out and got everything on there that's neccessary.



The arm of the fuel pump rides on that oblong piece so that as the engine turns over it keeps the pump pumpin. The gear with the horizontal teeth is for the distributor to mesh with. As the engine turns over the distributor spins to allow spark.

Next was the new timing cover. Noone in town had a water pump for it so I found shorter bolts so I could seal up the front. The cover needs to be on before the oil pan and I wanted to make some good progress today.



Next up ws the oil pickup tube. It needs to be a certain distance from the bottom of the pan and there is a baffle it needs to go into inside the pan as well. Here it is in position.



Once done here, I put the pan on. Meant to get a pic with the engine spun over but like always forgot until afterward.

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Old 07-24-2011, 06:51 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Before installing the lifters I oil down the lifter bores along with the lifter valley.



The face of the lifter received assembly lube to insure I don't damage the lobes of the camshaft during break in. Lubriplate was applied to the lifter cup where the pushrods sit to combat wear as well.




After lubrication, the lifters were dropped into their bores and the pushrods were slid into place.



The valvetrain went on next. The later AMC engines have a non adjustable valve train so you just torque the rocker bridges to 26lbs. Here they are after cleaning. The fuel pump eccentric is down there in the right hand corner.



Here the valvetrain is installed and torqued.

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