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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I posted this in another thread when asked on how to root a good MT Clinch:

Finer points to the MT Clinch (try this out IronMan, you'll probably like it):

When initiating the clinch, don't wrap your hands around the back of the opponents neck, but cup the backside/crown of their head. Your forearms should follow their jawline, across the clavicle, with your elbows somewhere around your opponents mid-chest area. If you wrap around their neck, you're going to have to exert more energy to bring their head down. Since the crown of their head is farther away from the fulcrum point that the head uses to move up and down (the neck itself), applied physics will work in your favor and make it so that your opponent has to exert much more energy to stay upright. Your goal will be their neck eventually (I'll ilustrate why) but not when you're first establishing the clinch.

When establishing the clinch, don't use an grip where you interlace your fingers. Instead use a grip where it is hand over hand, or a palm-to-palm "axehandle" type grip. The interlaced grip is much looser than the other two, and requires too much energy to maintain. Also, if the opponent starts pummeling for inside control or arm control, it's actually very easy for you to end up wrenching digits with an interlaced grip.

Once your grip is established, bring your forearms together to vice around the sides of your opponents neck. This is done easily by bringing your biceps in tight and squeezing your elbows together. The biggest and most common mistake when trying to establish the MT Clinch is not putting the requisite amount of pressure needed to control your opponent. From there, bring the opponents forehead to a rest on your collarbone or the middle of your chest.

Here's the finepoint to truly establish control and make your opponent regret the fact that you've got them tied up: Slip you grip lower to the nape of the neck, and lower your center of gravity by stepping back and bending your knees. This will crank his head up/back and expose his jaw and throat. Once in this position you'll find that leading your opponent around will be easy. Further since their head and neck is locked in tight, if they try to lower levels and shoot, or wrap you up with their arms it will be difficult because: 1) It hurts and 2) Your waist and lower body are farther away from them. From this position, your primed to fire away at the body or head of your opponent with knees.

If the opponent starts to step forward to come close, you can counter by stepping back and circling away with the opposite side leg. So if your opponent steps forward with their left leg, you step back with your left and turn to your left 90 degrees. They will need to follow you or they will fall to their right side. If they fall, no problem, start working your ground game. If they follow you to stay upright, right when their other leg starts to come forward shoot your left knee in (since it is in the perfect position to use the attack).

Does that make sense? I hope it does. If anyone is interested, I can give you ways to break the clinch.
Since I posted that up a while ago, it would probably do well to post ways to break the clinch. I'll offer a few methods, and if you feel like contributing, do so.

Principles of Breaking the Clinch: Principle of Inside Control
Anyone with any sort of grappling knowledge knows about "controlling the inside" where your hands/arms are inside the opponents to establish control over their head, neck, or waist. The first thing to start doing when your opponent starts setting up a clinch is to start "pummeling" your hands inside your opponent's to break his control and begin establishing your own clinch.

With this, swim your arms up between your opponent's to get both your hands inside and around your opponents neck. Once your arms are inside, you can begin relieving the pressure on your neck by beginning to establish your own clinch. Eventually, your body will begin forcing it's way up through your opponent's arms which will make movement a bit more bearable, and you can then start assaulting the opponent with your own knees.
 

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Onganju said:
Okay, I posted this in another thread when asked on how to root a good MT Clinch:



Since I posted that up a while ago, it would probably do well to post ways to break the clinch. I'll offer a few methods, and if you feel like contributing, do so.

Principles of Breaking the Clinch: Principle of Inside Control
Anyone with any sort of grappling knowledge knows about "controlling the inside" where your hands/arms are inside the opponents to establish control over their head, neck, or waist. The first thing to start doing when your opponent starts setting up a clinch is to start "pummeling" your hands inside your opponent's to break his control and begin establishing your own clinch.

With this, swim your arms up between your opponent's to get both your hands inside and around your opponents neck. Once your arms are inside, you can begin relieving the pressure on your neck by beginning to establish your own clinch. Eventually, your body will begin forcing it's way up through your opponent's arms which will make movement a bit more bearable, and you can then start assaulting the opponent with your own knees.
curious.. You an instructor somewhere I love reading your stuff .. some of it I know.. some is new.. but Its all great stuff
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Actually, I'm just an enthusiast. I've taken classes on and off, and trained on and off, but I haven't been able to stick in one place for too long to get anywhere. Aside from that, I just read and screw around with a lot of the techniques A LOT. I know what works, and a lot of times from personal experience. I just like writing and posting mostly. ;)

Aside from that, I do train people for a living. Sure, it's more voc-tech type stuff, but I've always had a nack for teaching folks new things.

I've got about, 1/2 dozen ways or so to break a clinch. Hopefully I'll have more online by the end of tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Takedown Options to Break the Clinch

Okay, I offered on option for breaking the clinch (which is the basic building block for breaking the cliinch). But if you think about the positions described above, it still leaves you in place where you have to worry about getting kneed. One thing that I have to mention about the following, is that you do not want your opponent to establish the clinch well enough that they get to the point where they have your neck viced down and have themselves rooted with their weight on you. You want to avoid the letting the opponent getting set at all costs.

Why? In that situation they have established a great deal of control over your head and neck and have created enough distance to properly knee into you and cause significant amounts of fight-stopping damage. So all of the efforts to break the clinch has to begin right when your opponent is beginning to set one. Otherwise, you are going to get kneed, and possibly multiple times while in the clinch. Keep that in mind with all of the clinch breaking techniques I offer here, and they will end up being a lot less painful when utilizing them.

Principles of Breaking the Clinch: Securing a Bodylock
For the grappling minded, if an opponent is close enough to touch you, they are also close enough to be taken down. The following is a route of action that can be employed.

When the opponent has begun clasping their hands around your neck, but before they have rooted down on you to end up "tri-podding" their weight on your by stepping back and bending their knees, you have a very prime opportunity to secure a bodylock/bearhug. As their hands drape around the back of your head, lower level and duckwalk deep into your opponent. While doing so, you want to lower your head and keep it in contact with their sternum/solar plexus area: DO NOT LOWER YOUR HEAD AND SHOOT IT TO THE SIDE OF YOUR OPPONENT.

If while lowering your head you position it to the side of your opponents body, you end up doing 2 things for your opponent:
1) If you head ends up on the same side they are cocking their knee, you open up the whole of your body as a target. Not good. We are trying to avoid being kneed.
2) Regardless of what side their knee'ing leg is at, you will expose your head to a guillotine. While we don't want to be hit, we don't want to become feed for a submission hold either.

Lower your level and shoot in/duckwalk so that you penetrate deep bith your base between your opponent's legs. Preferebly you will end up with the mirror leg or their knee'ing leg between the opponents base (so if they are going to knee you with their right leg, shoot so that your left leg ends up between their legs and vice versa). Once there, wrap your arms around your opponent's waist (establishing inside control) and secure a tight bodylock/bearhug on the opponent. Once the bodylock is established you have a few options.

1) Since your center of gravity is under theirs, you can proceed to lift the opponent for the taken down. This should be easy since you've shot deep under their base, and you're in a prime position to lift them.
2) If the opponent is much taller or bigger than you, you can continue driving through the opponent and sweep their front leg out from underneath them (either from the inside or outside--take your pick). I prefer the outside sweep here, as the inside sweep has more of a chance to end up with you in on top in your opponent's full guard. On the outside sweep the opponent will usually end up with half-guard at most, and it should be much easier to pass and establish side control or mount.

If the takedown does not succeed, you will be left in a position where your opponent's body is close and tight to yours and they won't have room to knee your midsection or head (at best they can knee your legs). Since you've established inside control with the body lock, your still in a more superior position of control. At this point, I would move the opponent into a position against the wall, cage, ring-ropes (or whatever solid object may be available) to keep them from creating distance to knee effectively, and to begin working either dirty boxing, or for another takedown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Another Grappling Option from the Clinch

Principles of Breaking the Clinch: Overhooks are your Friend
Okay, lets say that the situation is that you want to take the opponent down and they begin to secure a MT Clinch on you. You start pummeling your hands inside (see the Principle of Inside Control above), but they begin to step back to create distance. In fact, so much so that you don't think that you can shoot soon enough before eating a knee to the face. What are you options then?

This is where securing a set of Overhooks on your opponent can come in handy. In order to set the overhooks on your opponent:
1) Pummel your arms up inside of your opponents.
2) When your hands come up from inside the opponent's arms, hook them over and around both your opponents arms.
3) When your arms come fully around your opponent's arms, clasp your hands together and crunch your grip together hard while lowering your base. At this point, you are doing so in intent to wrench the opponent's elbows and shoulders out of socket in violent fashion. Also, when your hands are clasped together and your base is lowered you create a defensive barrier for any knees that may be fired by your opponent. Both your arms and your opponent's arms will be in the way of your upper body.

Once the overhooks are secured you have few options for action.

Option #1: Drop back and pull guard. Very few opponents will actually be able to stay upright when you do so. If your guard game is good, this may be a very viable option for you.

Option #2: Step in deep and hip throw your opponent. With this option, the likeliness of landing in full side control is very high is you decide to go to the ground with your opponent. If you decide to stay standing, make sure to control the arm opposite the hip you used to throw your opponent. They will be in prime position for an armbar or shoulder lock once they hit the ground.

Option #3: Go for a Yoko Otoshi or Tani Otoshi (Side/Valley Drop) by stepping back with either your left or right leg, and when the opponent follows your step with their mirroring leg step your leg far past theirs, and break your balance to that side with all your body weight. Your opponent will land to the side of you over your leg, and you can continue over to secure side control or full mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's cool... But this is about Breaking a clinch. We want to leave it, not stay there.

Anyways... I should be adding more as the weekend continues on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Reaching a Neutral Position is Good

Alrighty... I know it has been a while in this thread, and I really wanted to update this with more technical instruction after the destruction of Rich Franklin at the hands of Anderson Silva’s clinch, but I got distracted by other things (namely other threads). As noted by the bout above, the MT clinch is a bad position to be in when you are on the receiving end. So, let’s say that you are in the ring with a guy who has a real strong MT clinch, now what?

Principles of Breaking the Clinch: Reaching a Neutral Position
Okay… On this end we want to create a relative “safe zone” to allow you some time to re-gain your bearings. Two good ways to achieve this: The “Head Rest,” and Work for an Over-Under Clinch. On this end, you want to work for the latter first as that position will offer you more offensive options. So, let’s take a quick look at that first.

Working the Over-Under Clinch –
1) From the inside of your opponent’s clinch, pummel your arm (let’s say your left) up between your opponent’s arm, while your right arm is down to act as a barrier between you and your opponent’s knee. In fact you can check their hips with your right hand, and then their leg when you feel a knee coming.
2) Once your left arm swims clear of their right bicep, loop it over their arm and secure and overhook on that side. Doing so should break the grip on your neck if you do this with force and purpose.
3) Once you have the overhook secure, move your left hip in close to your opponent’s hips. This should help guard your left side while you defend knees coming in to your right by checking the leg with your free hand.
4) While moving your hips close, bring your head up from the center of their chest and rest it on the side of their head your overhook arm is on. This will allow you to “hide” in the cover of your opponent’s head. Yes you may get punched while you’re in the process of doing so, but with your body position being so close to your opponent their punches will be muffled and have less impact than normal.
5) Once your head is clear, step your right leg back, square up to the opponent and underhook their left arm with your right.
6) Once you have your Over-Under clinch secured, make sure that you keep your leg on the side of your overhook arm forward, root down on your opponent by lowering your base and keeping your weight on their overhooked arm.

You do not want to lean on your opponent that will allow them to knee without pause. If you root down by lowering your base, you make them carry your weight on their overhooked arm. This is all accomplished by moving your hips back and bending your knees to lower your base. When you have the Over-Under rooted, when your opponent begins to shift their base to throw a knee, you will feel it. When you do, all you have to do is tug, push, or pull on their overhooked arm through upper body movement and footwork and their base will be thrown off which will take the danger of the knee away. At that point, you can use an Overhook snap, Underhook snap or “Bump” to disengage back to a striking scenario, or you can work for a variety of Greco-Roman Takedowns.

I will address the Head Rest in my next post.

Crap... I forgot my sources:
Muay Thai: The Art of Fighting by Yod Ruerngsa, Khun Kao Charuad and James Cartmell. Links to this text can be found here.
Savage Strikes and The Clinch by, Mark Hatmaker.
Bas Rutten's Big Book of Combat by, Bas Rutten
 

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Onganju said:
Overhook snap, Underhook snap or “Bump” to disengage back to a striking scenario, or you can work for a variety of Greco-Roman Takedowns.
Please elaborate a bit more on these two techniques when you have time bro? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The Overhook Snap and Underhook Snap

ShootBoxer said:
Please elaborate a bit more on these two techniques when you have time bro? Thanks.
Sure... Actually, it is 3 techniques. These are all designed to allow you an opportunity to leave the clinch. Unfortunately when you find yourself in the clinch situation, getting out of it can be a risky proposition. If you happen to be tied up with an opponent who likes working inside the clinch, then you can't arbitrarily leave it at any moment without risking large amounts of damage from strikes, or opening yourself up to a takedown or re-clinch. By using the following techniques, you should be able to create an opportunity to escape in a way that limits the retaliatory options of your opponent and also set up your own counter attack.

We are going to set the situation as this: You have your opponent tied up in an Over-Under Clinch with your left arm in the Overhook position, right arm in the Underhook position, left leg forward with your base rooted down, and your head is positioned on the same side of your opponent as your overhook arm (so your head would be on the right side of the opponent, your opponent's head is on your right side). I'll list the instructions for these techniques off the left-side lead, but just like all the other techniques I've listed it can (and should) be drilled using a opposite side lead.

The Overhook Snap - The Overhook Snap is a standing shoulder lock similar to the one shown in Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu: Submission Grappling (technique #25). To execute the Overhook Snap:
1) Swim your left arm over your opponent's right arm, making sure to hook it at the elbow/crux of the arm where it bends.
2) After you've set the position of you overhook, step back with your right leg to begin turning your body in a clockwise motion.
3) While turning your body clockwise, reach under with your right hand and grab your left hand in a palm-to-palm grip.
4) When the grip is established, shoot your left hand across your body toward your right while using your right hand to assist in levering your opponent's elbow across your body. You want to do this in a quick and ballistic manner in order to wrench his elbow and shoulder. This is the reason why it is called a "snap" and not a turn or whizzer. The torque you are planning to use is generated by the simultaneous actions of stepping back, turning your body, and the levering of both your arms against your opponents arm and shoulder.

What you do next depends on your opponent. Most opponent's will try to pull their arms out (it's the natural human response). If you feel your opponent is trying to pull their arm out, do this:
1) Release the grip you have on their arm. This should unbalance them.
2) Push your opponent away at their shoulder/head as they are pulling back, unbalancing them further.
While they are still moving backwards, you can step back and re-orient yourself for a standing engagement (get your wind, re-think your strategy, etc). Or you can attack them while they are off balance with a punching combination, a low kick, or a shot. If you catch your opponent while they are still off balance moving backwards, your chances of successfully scoring increases.

If the opponent doesn't try to pull their arm out, but instead gets closer to you to lessen the angle of leverage on their elbow, you can do one of these options:
1) Dig the overhook in deeper for a whizzer, and while still using your body and footwork to turn clockwise lower your base and drive your opponent down. This will take them down next to you.
2) Pull guard and work a shoulder crank from the guard position a la' Frank Mir vs Pete Williams. You may end up with a submission.
3) Step back into your opponent (bringing your body counter-clockwise) with your right foot and hit a head and arm takeover. Or pancake them by switching to a figure-4 grip, draping your right arm across your opponent's throat while stepping through them.

The Underhook Snap - This is akin to the standing armbar shown in Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu: Submission Grappling (technique #20). To execute the Underhook Snap:
1) Swim your right arm up and over your opponent's left arm. You right arm should be coming up right above their left elbow, and your neck should be catching their arm around the wrist.
2) Step back with your left foot to turn your body in a counter-clockwise motion.
3) While turning your body counter-clockwise, reach over with your left hand and secure a grip on your right hand.
4) When your grip is established, you want to shoot your right hand down across your body in a ballistic fashion from your right shoulder toward your left hip. Again this is done in a quick, snapping motion and is assisted by the torque of your body turning and your left foot circling out.

Again - At this point, what happens next depends on your opponent. If your opponent tries to pull their arm out, release the grip and push them away at the head or ribs off their left side. You can either re-orient yourself or attack them while they are off balance exactly like you would with the Overhook Snap. If your opponent doesn't pull his arm out and instead tries to step in closer to you, the techniques are a little different due to the limb positions. Here are a few options:
1) The opponent steps in and actually manages to secure a scarf hold/headlock with their left arm. Well, you can suplex your opponent to bring them down. You can spin into them and roll them over your shoulder to bring them down. You can use a forearm wedge to push them off. You can slip behind them and set the hooks while you break their base to attain back mount. Really, the head lock is so basic to the point that they would be doing you a favor by going for it.
2) Switch to a figure-4 grip and drape your left arm across your opponent's throat and pancake them by stepping your right foot back and dropping levels.
3) Switch to a figure-4 grip and drape your left arm across the back of their neck, continue stepping back with your left leg and torque them counter-clockwise. While you bring them around with their head and arm, knee them to the face, throat or solar plexus with your left leg.

By using the Overhook or Underhook snap, you may not be gauranteed a submission, but you can discourage your opponent enough to give them cause to disengage you. By using that moment, it allows you the opportunity to leave the clinch or continue your own attack. I will address the Bump and Head Rest in a later post.

Sources:
Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu Submission Grappling Techniques by, Royler Gracie
Savage Strikes and The Clinch by, Mark Hatmaker
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Okay… We’ve established a few things concerning the Clinch that everyone should know by now. I’ll go over these real quick, because what I’m going to go over next is pretty much the “last resort” when everything else goes wrong. This will let us know what we should be striving to do before we get to this point.

Principle of Inside Control: One of the most effective ways to get out of a MT Clinch is simply to work for one of your own. When you are in close, establish your base of control first. Why? 1) We don’t want to be on the receiving end of a MT Clinch. 2) All work to break a clinch has to start right as it is being set to avoid taking damage. Once the MT Clinch is locked, you will be kneed. Whether that is once or multiple times, depends on how fast you can take control of the situation.

Secure a Bodylock: By getting your hips close to your opponent and locking then up tight, you take a lot of danger away from the knees by lessening the amount of distance they can travel to hurt you. Further, by securing a bodylock, if you choose to take the fight down to the ground you are in a better position to do so.

Secure the Overhooks: Securing a set of Overhooks will break the clinch on your neck, and allow you grappling options. If your opponent tries to yank their arms free, let them go and push them off with a “Bump” to set them up for your counter attack.

Reach a Neutral Position – Work the Over-Under Clinch: This is a relatively neutral position that will allow you not only to defend, but also set up your own attacks. Further, by rooting down on the opponent you can take away the danger of being kneed greatly. Once in this position, you can utilize the Overhook Snap, Underhook Snap or Bump to leave/break the clinch.

This brings us to what we have in front of us now, the Head Rest. I initially listed the Head Rest as a neutral position. In actuality, it is a defensive position and should be the last thing you fall back on while trying to get out of a clinch. It does not allow for any offensive posturing or techniques like a true “neutral” position. It does, however, create a relative “safe zone” for you so that you can gather your thoughts and figure a way out of your dilemma.

I have to say firstly that the technique name is truly a misnomer. You really aren’t going to be “resting” in the clinch at all. In fact, it is best to be moving and working within the clinch at all times. As it states in Muay Thai: The Art of Fighting:

MOVE AROUND!!! Do not stand in place and clinch, rather, CONSTANTLY be on the move! Use your arms to toss your opponent around. Push on your opponent’s shoulders/arms while pulling on his neck to throw him off balance, leaving him open for your knee strikes. Try to throw the opponent to the ground if you can! (and KICK him as he falls!)
While this is definitely true, wanton and panicked movement in a clinch can get you planted on your back, snatched in a submission hold, or bludgeoned repeatedly with knees, fists or elbows. It’s true that we want to keep moving to help avoid being hit, but if we do so with a purpose and in an educated fashion it will lessen the amount of damage we can incur along the way.

The Head Rest –
1) As your opponent set their MT Clinch around your neck, take your left arm (or your right – whichever you prefer) and drape it over your opponent’s arms at the crux of their elbows, and grab the far side arm (in this instance their left) at their elbow.
2) Take your head and insert your forehead into the crux of your left arm. This should relieve a little pressure off of your neck.
3) Take your right arm and place it in the space between your hips and your opponent’s hips. This will act as a “last ditch” barrier for any knees your opponent will fire.
4) Lower your base by bending at the knees and root your weight into the top of your opponent’s arms.

To defend knees after you’ve settled into a Head Rest do this: When you feel your opponent beginning to shift their weight to throw a knee, drop your weight through your left arm by dropping base and “circle away” from the knee. So, if your opponent is going to fire their right knee (to your left side) you lower your base and throw your weight down through your opponent’s arms, step your right foot forward and to the right 45 degrees, and step your left foot forward into where your right used to be while you pivot your body to your left. In order for your opponent to stay upright and in control of the clinch, they will need to follow your step with their own and will not be able to fire the knee. If your opponent tries to fire their left knee (to your right side), you would use the same type of footwork to step out to your left, while you pivot your body right. Got it?

During this time you are hoping that your opponent’s grip will loosen enough to leave the clinch. I’ll list a few ways to loosen your opponent’s grip while in the clinch and also how to use the “Bump” to get out of the clinch in my next post.

Sources:
Muay Thai - The Art of Fighting
Bas Rutten's Big Book of Combat by, Bas Rutten
Savage Strikes and The Clinch by, Mark Hatmaker
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The Bump

Okay, now that we’ve got all this information up on the previous posts I can see some of you are out their thinking, “Why don’t you just shove the guy off?” Well… That is definitely a viable option to go to when you opponent hasn’t fully hooked you in their clinch. The other thing to consider is that if you’re just trying to shove your opponent off and you are 1) Tired, 2) Not as strong as your opponent, or 3) Not as big as your opponent then that is much easier said than done. Further, you can be opening yourself up to all sorts of nasty types of strikes or takedowns.

That is why the Bump is advocated. In contrast to just shoving off with your arms, the Bump won’t just create a few inches of distance between you and your opponent. In actuality it is going to create quite a few feet as you rocket your opponent away from you. Further, it does not lose its level of effectiveness as much as a normal shove when you begin to get fatigued. The Bump is best used before a clinch is set (your opponent is reaching for you), or off an Over-Under Clinch.

The Bump:
1) Stack your hands one on top of the other in the center of your opponent’s chest.
2) Push off your legs and “Bump” the back of your hands with top of your head. This will get your opponent moving.
3) Continue pushing off your legs and completely extend your arms forward off of the Bump.
4) As you push off keep your hands crossed, and your head down between your shoulders to keep it covered. Your opponent shouldn’t be able to counterattack you off of the Bump unless they’ve completely stepped around it, or are crazy athletic and skilled enough to pull off some sort of flipping kick as they are being shoved back.

As your opponent reels backwards, you can either take a moment to re-orient yourself, or you can take advantage of their momentary state of unbalance and use it as a chance to attack with a striking combination or shoot at their legs.

Working the Bump – From Your Head to Their Toes:
Here are a few options to use after/during a successful Bump. These would be considered fouls in Boxing or Kick Boxing. In a MMA situation, they are more than fair game.

  • Bump and Run: Bump your opponent and run up on them for a striking combination, or shoot. I’ve found that body shots work real well, so do leg shots. You want to really frustrate your opponent and keep them off balance for a while longer? Hit the Bump, step in and hit a Teep/Front/Push kick as they try to regain their balance. Rinse and repeat until they fall or back into a solid object.
  • Lead Foot: Step on your opponent’s foot (this will be done with a mirror-side basis, your left foot on your opponent’s right foot, and vice-versa) and hit the Bump. Keep your foot on top of your opponent’s foot as you follow up with punches or a shot. This can cause a great deal of stress on their foot, and can result in tendon and ligament damage.
  • Hot Foot: Step on your opponent’s foot and hit the Bump like you would with the Lead Foot (above). When you feel their body bringing their foot up off the floor, lift your leg and let go of their foot. As they struggle for balance, attack them.
If you try out the Lead Foot or Hot Foot on your training partners during sparring, do so with care. It is very easy to mess up an ankle that way, and you want to make sure to take care of your training partners in order to lessen the chance of injury.

That's that for the Bump. I'll list a few available ways to break your opponent's grip if you find yourself caught in their clinch in a later post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Not yet... I am working on getting a hold of a video camera to start putting some stuff together. I believe this thread and the Instructional thread in the Grappling section would definitely be better off with vids.

Hmmm... That reminds me. There is more that I can add to this thread. Expect more to be added soon peeps. :thumbsup:
 

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I don't know of any name for this technique, but it works pretty well.

When in the MT clinch, place both hands (hand over hand) against on side of your opponents face, preferably near the jaw line, and push. By tilting their head back, you create slack in the clinch and neutralize the power of their knees. Once you've extended your arms far enough, snake the bottom hand to the side or back of the opponent's head (palm against)and guide the head down and to the side. What you do with your opposite hand, during this time, will dictate your options.

If your other arm stays on the outside of theirs, and you maneuver your opponents head correctly, it is easy to then seize a guillotine. Or, if you position the hand under their elbow, while you're guiding his head you can hoist it upwards to seriously unbalance him. From there, it'd be easy to perform a judo throw that could land you in side mount. Either way, you could deliver a knee or two of your own. It'd also be very easy to put your opponent into a headlock clinch.
 

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k...i've got a quick and easy one that patrick coté showed at a seminar

when your opponent has you in the clinch with his hands cupped behind your head, quickly bend your legs like you're going down for a squat then cup your hands on his elbows closer to the triceps then the forearms

explode up hard and fast holding onto the elbows, this will cause your opponents arms to straighten much like an armbar and he will be forced to break the clinch

if your opponent is in closer and is stronger, you may just end up lifting him up by the elbows, that's ok since you still have the advantage: his feet are off the ground and you can go for a throw/slam/trip/etc.

it'd quick and the easiest/most effective technique i've learned so far to break a clinch...it needs to be executed fast or the opponent will know what you are doing or you'll grab a knee with your face
 
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